Svalen’s Cook Book, 2016-18 A work in progress, with contributions from crew and skipper. (We all like a good home-cooked meal aboard Svalen too!)
Dishes cooked on various cruises with, among others, Gill Stowell, David Hilton, David Gundry, Rona Gundry, Karen Refsgaard, Thomas Kringleboton Thiis, Hege Hauge Toft, Selma, Theakari, and Sigrid, Birthe Ebdrup, Lasse Ebdrup, Stuart Black, Karen Refsgaard, Lisbeth Refsgaard, Morten Opsahl, Tanera Astley, Robin Astley, Veyatie Astley, Polladh Astley,and John Bryden aboard Aldarion and Svalen, 2014-18
A. Soups, Chowders
A.1 Onion and tomato soup
Steam some finely chopped onions and garlic until tender but not brown. Add a can or more of plum tomatoes, some salt and pepper, and a few chilli flakes and oregano, thyme and bay leaves. Bring slowly back to boil, and simmer for 15 minutes.
A.2 Tomato, Basil, Garlic and Chorizo soup for 2
Gently fry a couple of cloves of garlic, finely chopped, in a soup pan (also with ½ chopped chilli pepper if you have them) using a small amount of olive oil. . Add some chopped Chorizo, and fry lightly, then add a little dry pasta and a tin of chopped tomatoes with a little water and simmer for 8 minutes. Add some fresh Basil, hopefully lurking in the cockpit garden, salt and pepper, and serve with toast or fresh rolls.
B. Other starters and snacks
B.1 Smoked haddock and poached egg
If you are lucky enough to find whole smoked haddock or fillets thereof (preferably from Arbroath!), then you can cook them lightly in butter and add a soft poached egg on top. Toast can be under. Delicious for breakfast too!
B.2Beignets Souffle (Cheese Puffs)
Makes about 30. At their best when first made, but can be frozen after frying and reheated without thawing for 5 minutes in a hot oven (230C). Good for cold winter evenings!
70 gm plain flour
¾ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 whole eggs and one yolk
100g Jarlsberg cheese or Gruyere cut into tiny dice
oil for deep frying
2 or 3 cloves crushed garlic
Put the water in a small heavy pan with the butter and bring to the boil. Sift the flour, salt and cayenne into a bowl, add the crushed garlic and mix well. Remove the pan from the heat and add all the seasoned flour at once, mixing well with the water and butter mixture. Rreturn to heat and stir until the paste leaves the side of the pan.
Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly before beating in the eggs and yolk, one at a time. Stir in the cheese.
Using two teaspoons, mould half teaspoons of the mixture into soft balls and drop into the hot deep-frying fat (190C) for 6-8 minutes, turning them over at half time. The paste will swell into golden puffs, doubling in size. Drain, and serve very hot.
A fantastic winter warmer with a glass of sherry!
[Recipe adapted by JB and based on the (old) New Times Cookbook (by Shona Crawford Poole)].
B.3 Lebanese lentils and garlic (Thanks to our friend Khalid Itani who makes this delicious accompaniment).
Ingredients (Amounts are for 2 persons). –
One cup of brown or green lentils, rinsed well and then cooked slowly until you can feel the skin detaching easily from the seed –
A whole lemon (medium size) and –
a large garlic clove (or maybe 2 small)
and pita or flat bread if available or any other type of bread.
Steps: In a large bowl, put the minced garlic (using a garlic crusher) with a pinch of sea salt, and then add the lemon juice. Then, add the cooked lentils, mix well and then finish with olive oil and bon appetit!
Lentils addendum you can use some of the cooking water of the lentils to dilute the garlicy taste and make the dish little soupy too
To: John Bryden <firstname.lastname@example.org>
C. Meat main courses
C.1 Thomas´s Boeuf Bourgogne,
1.5 kg of shoulder meat
300g smoked bacon
4 cloves of garlic
large sprig of thyme
2 concentrated liquid meat stock
5 dl red wine
a spoon of wheat flour
Preparation & Cooking
- cut the meat in pieces 1×4 cm
- seal meat on high temperature
- cut each onion 12, sauté
- cut mushrooms in two, sauté
- fry the bacon
Put meat, onion, mushrooms, carrots (in pieces), meat stock, red wine, spices in a pan and simmer for 40 minutes, thicken with flour. Add bacon at the end.
Serve with rice or mashed potatoes.
C.2 Lamb chops with fried pears in ginger, garlic and chevre gravy (Thanks to Thomas Kringleboton and his brother, I believe) (five servings)
10 lamb chops
4 cm of ginger
5 cloves of garlic
four spoons of creamy goat cheese or chevre
four spoons of cream cheese
two pears cut in wedges
- fry the pears in butter, put aside
- fry the lambchops in butter add garlic and ginger in the end
- add chevre and cream cheese, simmer for five minutes
- add pears, simmer for five minutes
& serve with boiled potatoes
C.3Chicken with garlic and bay leaf and olives
Six Chicken thighs, breasts or legs with skin on.
12-18 Whole Garlic Cloves in their skin.
Roast the garlic in olive oil until brown, adding the bay leaves at the last minute, take out and set aside, add the seasoned chicken to the pan and fry each side until nice and brown. Add back the garlic and bay leaves, and then add the wine to coverthe chicken. Stir around and turn the chicken. Cover and simmer for 30 mins or so. Serve immediately.
C.4 Seared sirloin salad with barley, grapes and sumac (John after Moros 1) (6 people)
80gms pearl barley
2 or 3 good sized, thick sirloin steaks about 750gms
drizzle of olive oil
4-5 bunches flat leaved parsley, leaves picked from stalks
500g white seedless grapes
sea salt and black pepper
Small onion, grated
2 tblsps red wine vinegar
2 tsps sumac
2 tsps freshly ground coriander seeds
1 tsp allspice ground
black pepper freshly ground
2-3 small garlic cloves crushed with salt
2 tblsps red wine vinegar
6 tblsps Ex V olive oil
3 tsps sumac
2 pinch freshly ground allspice
2 pinch freshly ground coriander
Simmer the barley in boiling salted water for about 40-45 minutes, drain and cool.
Mix all the marinade ingredients together and rub evenly over the steaks. Leave to marinate for 1-2 hours.
Blend the ingredients together for the dressing, seasoning with salt and pepper
After the steak is marinated heat a griddle pan until it smokes. Rub the steaks with olive oil and griddle. For medium rare, just sear the steaks on both sides, about 1 minute both sides. Season with salt as the meat is turned. Remove from heat and rest a minute while you assemble the salad.
Put the barley in a large salad bowl, adding the parsley and grapes. Taste for seasoning. Slice the steak into thin slices across the grain about 1 cm thick. Toss half of the steak strips in the salad and lay the rest on top. Serve immediately.
C.5 John´s Lamb Rogan Josh
Rogan Josh evolved from Kashmiri roots and was one of the earliest curries to achieve mainstream popularity on British high’streets. It isn’ta chilli-laden curry, but it does have an appealingly intense flavour. Kashmiri chillies, noted for their mildness and bright colour, aretraditional but notthat easy to get hold of; paprika makesa super substitute. If you can, make thiscurry a day ahead, to give the masala a chance to mature and mellow.
1 large onion, roughly chopped
4-5 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
4 tbsp vegetableoil
1 brown cardamom pod, split (optional)
8 green cardamom pods, split
2 cinnamon sticks, 3cm (P/4in) each
1 dried bay leaf
3/4 tsp black peppercorns
1 blade mace
600g (lIb 50z) boned shoulder or leg of lamb,
cut into 3cm (P/4in) cubes
125g (41/2oz) plain yogurt
2 tsp fennel seeds, roasted and
3/4 tsp ground coriander
3/4 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp mild paprika
1/2 tsp chilli powder
. 1/2tsp ground ginger
1/4 tsp ground turmeric
To make the spice mix, combine all the ingredients. Leave on one side.
Put the onion in a food processor, add a dash of water and blend to a smooth paste. Tip the onion paste into a small bowl. Alternatively, you can grate the onion. Blend the garlic in the foodprocessor with 1 tbsp water, then transfer to another bowl.
Heat the oil in a wok or karahi over a moderate heat and add the brown and green cardamoms, cinnamonsticks, bay leaf, cloves,peppercorns and mace. Swirl everything around in the hot oil for about 30 seconds or so, until the spices give off a nutty whiff. Add the onion paste to the pan, turndown the heat and fry until golden. Stir in the garlic paste and continue cooking for 1 minute.
Tip the lamb into the pan, turn the heat up and fry for about 10 minutes or until browned. If it looks like it is catching on the bottom of the pan, add a couple of tablespoons of water.Stir in thespice mixture. Gradually add the yogurt to the pan, stirring well between each addition. Pour inenough hot water to barely cover the lamb, then cover the pan and simmer, stirring occasionally,for about 40 minutes or until the lamb is tender and the sauce thickened.
If, at the end of cooking, the masa/a is alittle thin, take the lamb out of the pan and boil the liquid until thickened. Return the meat to the curry and serve piping hot. Mildandfragrant!
C.6 Roast Shoulder of Lamb stuffed with saffron rice
Saffron rice (see below)
1 shoulder of lamb about 1.6 to 11.8 kg, boned and trimmed of most of skin and fat
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons finely grated zest and juice of 1 fresh orange
sea salt and black pepper
Blanched and braised chard or braised spinach (see below)
200g Greek yoghurt tinned with 2 tablespoons milk, with ½ crushed garlic clove and a good pinch of salt
Cook saffron rice and set aside.
Pre heat oven to 220C
Place shoulder skin side down on a board and open out fully. Put half, or as much as will fit, of the saffron rice into all the pockets of the boned lamb, roll up the lamb and tie with string. Place in a large roasting tray on the hob, over a medium heat, add olive oil, and brown all sides of the lamb until sealed. Season the lamb with salt and pepper and place in the oven to roast for 1 to 1.5 hours or until the meat is pink inside. Remove, transfer lamb to a board and let it rest for 10 minutes loosely covered in foil.
Meanwhile make the gravy. Pour off any fat and return the roasting tray to the hob over a medium heat. Add the water and orange peel+juice, bring to a gentle simmer and scrape off all the meat juices and other bits on the bottom of the pan. Taste for seasoning, transfer to a small saucepan or bowl and keep hot. When you are ready to eat, slice the lamb and serve with orange gravy over the top, the rest of the saffron rice (warmed) on the side, some braised chard or spinach and a little of the yoghurt mixture.
80g unsalted butter
½ cinnamon stick
5 whole green cardamom pods, cracked
3 whole black peppercorns
200g basmati rice, washed and soaked in cold salted water for 3 hours
2 tablespoons roughly chopped pistachio nuts (optional)
2 tablespoons barberries (optional)
1 good pinch of saffron threads (about 100 threads) infused in 4 tablespoons of boiling water
Serve with the garlic-yoghurt and caramelised crispy onions!
Melt the butter in a saucepan over a medium to low heat. Add the cinnamon, cardomem pods and black peppercorns and fry gently for about 4 mins until the aromas are released. Drain the rice well, add it to the butter, and stir to coat for 1 minute. Turn up the heat to medium-high. If using them, stir in the pistachios and/or barberries now. Pour enough water over the rice to cover it by 1cm and season wwith salt. Rest some greaseproof paper on the surface of the water and then place a lid on the pan, bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Lift the lid and paper off the pan and drizzle the saffron water evenly over the rice. Replace the paper and lid. Turn down the heat to medium-low and cook for another 4-5 minutes.
Dress spinach leaves with juice of ½ lemon, olive oil, sea salt and black pepper. Place a large saucepan (or wok) over a medium heat, add 4 tablespoons olive oil. When hot add 3-4 garlic cloves thinly sliced and gently fry until golden-brown. Add the dressed spinach and toss. Remove quickly as it does not need much cooking. Test for seasoning.
Caramelised crispy onions
Slice 2 onions thinly and evenly
Heat 300ml sunflower oil in frying pan. When hot add thin layer of sliced onions and cook over medium heat stirring occasionally. When onions are golden to mahogany in colour remove with slatted spoon and do the next batch if necessary. Spread onions on kitchen paper or a rack. Oil can be kept for another recipe.
C.7 “Spicy pork kebabs with moorish flavors”.
2 cloves garlic, slices
1 tsp whole coriander seeds
3/4 tsp sweet paprika
3/4 tsp cumin seeds
1/2 tsp dried thyme
1/4 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 tsp curry powder
3 tablesp olive oil
1 tablesp lemon juice
1 tablesp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
freshly ground pepper
1 pound pork tenderlin, cut into 3/4-1 inch cubes
Soak bamboo skewers in water for 30 minutes. Mash the garlic and the salt. In a dry pan heat coriander, papira, cumin, thyme, red pepper, and curry until hot and aromatic 30 seconds. Put the mixture in a bowl and grind it. Combine the garlic, spices, oil, lemon juice, parsley, salt, pepper and the meat. toss well and marinate in refrigerator for 2 -3 hours. Thread the pork onto the skewers. Broil or grill and turn every 2-3 minutes and basting evt. with the marinade – in total 10-15 minutes. Serve immediately. Makes 12 skewers to serve 6.
Then Flat bread.
1 table sp active dry yeast
2 tablesp plus 1 cup wager
3 cups flour
1 tsp salt
1/4 cup olive oil.
Use the amount for 2 small pizza sizes of bread – not too thin to ensure to leave them soft while eating and spinkle with oil under and over… Bake and serve immediately.
Finally make a spanish Alioli
Spanish garlic mayonnaise
1 egg yolk,
1 cup olive oil
5 cloves garlic, mashed
salt and ground pepper
2-3 tablesp white wine vinegar.
Place the egg yolk and stir in the oil slowly, such that the oil is being emulsified before adding more. Add the garlic and season with salt, pepper and vinegar to taste.
C.8Moroccan Chicken Tagine with Flat Bread and Tabbouleh (Gill Stowell, by way of the Guardian)
The jewel in the crown of Moroccan cuisine – although couscous, crispy pigeon b’stilla piesand those sticky sweet date pastries also deserve a look-in – the tagine is a stew that takes its name from the heavy earthenware pot in which it is slow cooked, traditionally over an open fire, or bed of charcoal.
Tagines can be cooked up from almost anything – lamb and chicken remain the most popular, but beef, goat and even camel turn up tagined these days (and you can also make something intriguingly named a Berber omelette in one, should you so desire).
What they all have in common is low, slow cooking – I have chosen chicken tagine with olives and preserved lemons, described by Claudia Roden as “the best-known Moroccan chicken dish”, purely because I’m hoping spring will finally spring some time soon, and such Mediterranean flavours will seem more fitting than a heartier beef and prune number.
A note – in Morocco, tagines are generally served with bread, couscous being a dish in its own right. Both are, in my opinion, equally good at mopping up any sauce, so you should feel free to do as you please. We used whole barley instead of couscous, and this was excellent! Boiled for about 40 mins in salted water and drained.
Eagle-eyed readers will already have observed (and possibly commented) on the fact that I am not using a traditional tagine pot to make my recipe. I considered investing in one, giddy at the thought of how beautiful it would look in the kitchen, but then I read Paula Wolfert, perhaps the foremost English-language authority on Moroccan cooking, say that “the shallow bottom is most important for braising meat for a ‘tagine’ … You use less liquid than in a deep casserole and the sauce emerges intense in texture and flavour.”
Yes, a proper tagine would be ideal for this recipe, mainly thanks to the flavours apparently produced by the traditional unglazed earthenware, but my aim in this column is always to produce a great version of the dish that is workable in your average British kitchen. So if, like me, you don’t have a tagine, any wide, shallow pot with a tight-fitting lid will do the trick.
Mourad Mazouz’s chicken tagine. Photograph: Felicity Cloake for the Guardian
Chicken breast, as suggested by Algerian restauranteur Mourad Mazouzand Sydney-based Moroccan chef Hassan M’Souli is too dry for this dish, and breasts on the bone take a long time to cook through, though they do give a better flavour. If you’re cooking for a variety of tastes, I’d recommend buying a whole chicken, as Claudia Roden suggests in Arabesque, and jointing it yourself, but otherwise, chicken thighs provide a decent amount of meat, while the bones add depth and flavour to the gravy.
Gourmet magazine’s chicken tagine. Photograph: Felicity Cloake for the Guardian
Onions are a must in a tagine, and using them as a bed for the chicken, as the late-lamented Gourmet magazine and M’Souli suggest, is a clever idea, preventing the chicken from sticking to the base of the pan. To make this bed more substantial, it’s helpful to cut them into thin strips, rather than grating, as in Roden’s recipe – the slim crescents are also visually rather pleasing alongside the slivers of preserved lemon and the bulbous purple olives.
Most recipes use standard yellow onions, but I’m sold on Gourmet’s red variety, which lend a lovely sweetness to this savoury dish. Tomatoes, as used by Hassan M’Souli, seem wrong here, however: their fruity acidic flavour spoils the purity of the sourness of the lemons and saltiness of the olives. M’Souli’s potatoes seem even more out of place, their starchy bulk weighing down the tagine.
Hassan M’Souli’s chicken tagine. Photograph: Felicity Cloake for the Guardian
I’m always happy to break out my fancy ras el hanout spice blend, but in Mazouz’s recipe it seems like too much spice, especially in contrast to the clear flavours of Roden’s tagine. Using just ginger and saffron, as she does, allows the flavour of the chicken to really shine through – even the vibrant yellow turmeric in Gourmet ‘s version seems unnecessary given the saffron. Despite my “keep it simple” mantra, I can’t resist the pinch of cinnamon they also put in, which serves to underline the sweetness of the slow-cooked onion.
M’Souli soaks his chicken in a chermoula, the punchy North African marinade made from onions and spices, then adds more to the pan during cooking. It’s delicious, but completely changes the character of the dish, thickening the gravy and adding a confusing number of different flavours, which I can’t warm to having tasted Roden’s magnificent effort.
Fresh herbs are vital here: I’m going to add generous amounts of coriander and parsley to the dish itself, then pile on even more coriander before serving – it adds yet more freshness.
Claudia Roden’s chicken tagine. Photograph: Felicity Cloake for the Guardian
Like any stew, a tagine needs some liquid in which to slowly braise the meat. Mazouz uses far too much, however, making his dish very watery and bland. (I’d note that I have had similar dishes in Morocco itself though, so this may well be a perfectly reputable and authentic style of tagine.) However, I’d maintain that there’s no need to cover the meat with water if you have a tight-fitting lid and a low enough heat. Even Claudia Roden’s 300ml of water needs quite a bit of reducing before it acquires its intense chickeny flavour. The 175ml suggested by Gourmet produces quite enough well-flavoured sauce, once augmented by the chicken juices and the moisture from the onions.
Olives and preserved lemons
Violet olives seem to work better than the green ones used by M’Souli and Mazouz, which I find too salty-sour in combination with the preserved lemons. There’s no need to boil them first, as Mazouz suggests, unless you don’t like them – in which case, it’s probably best to make something else.
Preserved lemons (see also the recipe later), which are fairly widely available in the “speciality ingredients” section of supermarkets these days, add a pleasing savoury bitterness to this dish, but they can be overpowering, especially if you use as much of the pulp as Gourmet suggests. Instead, I’m going to concentrate on the peel, adding just enough finely diced flesh to give a little acidity to the sauce.
3tbsp olive oil 2 red onions, thinly sliced lengthways 3 garlic cloves 2tsp ground ginger ½tsp saffron, in a little warm water 1tsp cinnamon Juice of ½ lemon 2 small preserved lemons 2tbsp chopped parsley Small bunch of fresh coriander 6 chicken thighs 3tbsp violet olives
Heat a tagine or heavy-bottomed shallow lidded pan on a low heat and add the oil, followed by a layer of onion. Mash the garlic with ½tsp salt and add to the pan.
Sprinkle over the ginger, saffron water and cinnamon, followed by the lemon juice, and coarsely chopped pulp of one preserved lemon and the rind of both, cut into slivers. Add the parsley and 2tbsp chopped coriander and toss it all together well.
Arrange the chicken on top and scatter over the olives. Pour 175ml water into the pan, cover tightly and simmer very gently for about 45 minutes until the chicken is cooked through.
Season to taste and top with the remaining coriander, chopped.
C.9 Chicken and Peanuts (Thanks to Gill Stowell and David Hilton)
75ml veg. oil
1 onion peeled and diced
salt and pepper
30 ml flour
4 chicken joints
150 ml chicken stock
150 ml milk
about 40ml peanut butter
30 ml single cream
50gms salted peanuts to garnish
Heat oil and sweat onions for a few minutes. Transfer to a casserole. Season with flour and coat the chicken with it. Fry until golden brown ND Transfer to casserole. Add the stock to the frying pan, stir well, add the milk and peanut butter and heat gently. Pour over the chicken in the casserole and cook for 1 hour. Adjust seasoning. Add cream,, and garnish with peanuts. Serve perhaps with sautéed mushrooms. One can also add mushrooms in to the dish at half way, but in this case only use 75ml chicken stock-
C.10Greek Chicken (Based on The Mediterranean Dish)
For 8 people
- 4 to 5 pieces chicken, bone in, skin on (I used 2 breasts and 3 legs)
- 4 gold potatoes (about 2 lb), scrubbed clean, cut into thin wedges
- 1 medium yellow onion, halved then sliced
- 1 tsp black pepper
- 2 tbsp quality extra virgin olive oil, plus 1/2 cup more for later
- 1/4 cup lemon juice
- 12 fresh garlic cloves, minced
- 1 1/2 tbsp dried Rosemary
- 1/2 tspground nutmeg
- 2 cups chicken stock
- 1 lemon, sliced
- 12 pitted quality kalamata olives, optional
- Fresh parsley, for garnish
- Pat chicken dry and season generously with salt (lift the skins and apply salt underneath as well). Leave at room temperature for 30 minutes. Pat dry again if needed.
- Preheat oven to 180 degrees C.
- Place the potato wedges and onions on large sheet pan. Season with sea salt and 1 tsp fresh ground black pepper.
- In a large skillet, heat 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil over medium-high heat. Add chicken skin-side down to brown (5 to 7 minutes,) then flip over and sear briefly, about another 3 minutes. (do this in batches, if you need to). Transfer from skillet to the prepared sheet pan, nestled between the potato wedges, keeping everything in one layer.
- In a small mixing bowl, whisk together 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil with lemon juice, minced garlic, rosemary, and nutmeg. Pour all over the chicken and potatoes; lift chicken pieces so some of the juice will flow under, and toss potatoes until well-coated.
- Now, pour chicken broth into the pan, but do not pour over the chicken. Add lemon slices on top.
- Bake in heated oven uncovered for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until chicken and potatoes are tender. Occasionally, flip the potatoes over. (Chicken’s internal temperature should register at 165 degrees F)
- Remove from heat and add kalamata olives, if you like. Garnish with a little bit of fresh parsley. Serve withGreek salad, Garlic Yoghurt and flat bread or pita.
D. Pasta main courses
D.1 Penne Arabbiata(John’s recipe, based on the River Café Italian recipes book; but Gill and David Cooked a slightly different version of their own)
Garlic cloves 4, peeled and halved
Plum tomatoes 2 cans
Ex.V. Olive Oil 2/3 tbsps
Dried Chillies 2
Basic leaves ¾ tbsps.
Heat the olive oil in pan and add garlic and whole chillies. When the garlic is brown, remove with the chillies and save. Put the basil leaves in the hot oil for about 5 seconds and remove. Add the tomatoes to the oil, season and break them up. Cook gently for 10 mins.
Cook the penne in boiling salted water until al dente, Drain.
Add the garlic, chillies and basil to the pasta Stir in the tomato sauce and stir everything well before serving.
Sometimes I add chopped Chorizo to this.
D.2 Spaghetti alla Carbonara (4-6 people) John, based on the New Times Cookbook recipe.
225gms streaky bacon thick sliced and cut into short strips
5 or 6 cloves garlic peeled but not chopped
2 tblsps Ex V Olive Oil
30 gms butter
4 or 5 tblsps white wine
salt and freshly ground black pepper
450 gms spaghetti
3 large eggs
84 gms parmesan cheese
3 tblsps chopped flat-leaved parsley
Preparation & cooking
Bruise the garlic with the back of the knife and add with the chopped bacon to a pan with melted hot oil and butter, cooking until the garlic and bacon are golden colour. Add the win and shake. Boil until the wine is well reduced, then discard the garlic. Keep warm while cooking the spaghetti to al dente.
Break the eggs into a warm serving bowl, add the cheese and parsley and black pepper, beating all lightly together. Add the hot cooked spaghetti and toss in the egg mixture until well coated. Add the bacon with its fat, and toss again. Serve immediately!
E. Fish Main courses
E.1 Salmon with ginger, soy sauce and olive oil (Adapted from @David Gundry)
4 Fillets salmon
2 bunches spring onions
Dark Soy Sauce
Marinate the salmon in 1 Tbsp dark soy sauce, 1 tsp EV olive oil, 2cm knob of chopped root ginger, crushed garlic, marinade 10 mins+, fry salmon in hot oil skin side down about 3 mins each side, let rest, pour the rest of the marinade into the pan, add spring onions, cook for 1 minute, serve salmon on the spring onions with crushed potatoes.
E.2 Prawn Biryani (Thanks toGill Stowell)
Ingredients for 4
Small onion thinly sliced
Light olive oil 2tbsps
2 tsp cumin seeds
Zest of 1large lemon
500g raw prawns defrosted(can use cooked prawns but add at very end)
4 ripe or tinned tomatoes –can add red or green pepper too if liked
150g toasted almonds or cashews –optional
1tsp dried chilli flakes
200g basmati rice & 500ml hot water
Fresh coriander leaves
Frozen peas and crème fraiche or yoghurt to serve
Heat oil and cook cumin until sizzle/aromatic then add onion and lemon zest and fry until translucent. Add chilli flakes then tomatoes and nuts if using. Stir fry for 30secs then add rice and stir. Add hot water and simmer very low with lid on tight for 10minutes. Add prawns and return to simmer for another 5 minutes. Stir in coriander and serve with peas and crème fraiche.
E.3 KEDGEREE for 4
Put 700g of smoked haddock in a pan with 570ml of water. Simmer for 8mins while you chop an onion. [just a small word of warning when you buy Nordic smoked fish – it is very salty compared, for example, with Scottish smoked haddock, and I think should be soaked for a while beforehand to reduce the salt levels! JB]
Remove the fish from the water, which you need to keep. You need to keep the fish too but put it somewhere warm.
In the same pan melt 50g butter and soften the onion in it for 5mins.
Add 3/4 teaspoon Madras curry powder (or more/less to taste)
Cook for another 1/2 min then add 225ml Basmati rice with 450ml
(i.e. double the volume of rice) of the water you have saved.
Bring to the boil and stir once then cover tightly and reduce heat to a low simmer.
Use the next 10mins to hard boil, peel and roughly chop 3 or 4 eggs and flake the fish.
Put the fish and egg along with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, some parsley and another 50g of butter on top of the slowly simmering rice and re-cover.
After a further 5mins stir everything together and serve with peas and copious quantities of white wine or cider.
If you can’t get smoked haddock try it with any smoked fish and, if you haven’t got a measuring jug, just guess the quantity of rice you need and assess it’s volume by putting it in a cup/empty can of peas/whatever you please and use twice the volume of liquid as you have used of rice.
E.4 Fish Pie (Thanks to M Tonks, BBC Food)
For the mashed potatoes
- 1kg/2lb 4oz potatoes, cut into 5cm/2in chunks
- 50g/2oz butter
- 100g/3½ oz crème fraîche
- 3 tbsp warm milk
- pinch salt and white pepper
For the filling
- 500ml/1 pint milk
- 250g/9oz smoked haddock
- 200g/7oz codloin
- 1 onion
- 1 bay leaf
- 3 cloves
- 2 leeks, washed and chopped
- 50g/2oz butter, plus 25g/1oz for dotting on top of the pie
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- 3 tbsp plain flour
- 100g/3½oz raw king prawns
- 50g/2oz frozen peas
- 1 tbsp finely chopped parsley
- 1 unwaxed lemon, finely grated zest only
- Preheat the oven to 190C/170C Fan/Gas 5.
- Boil potatoes until tender. Drain and mash them with the butter, crème fraîche and warm milk and season with salt and pepper. Set aside and keep warm.
- Heat the milk in a large pan, then add the smoked haddock and cod. Cut the onion in half, make an incision in one of the halves and insert the bay leaf. Push the cloves into the same onion half and place this into the pan with the milk and fish. Bring the milk to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 6–7 minutes.
- Meanwhile, finely chop the remaining onion half and the leeks. Heat the butter with the olive oil in a small frying pan and gently fry the onion and leeks for 4–5 minutes, until softened but not browned.
- Remove the fish from the pan, and set aside to cool slightly. Keep the milk in the pan.
- Add the flour to the leeks and stir well. Fry for 1 minute, stirring frequently. Gradually spoon in the milk from poaching the fish, and stir it in well each time. Add all the milk in this way, and heat gently until the sauce has thickened. Taste the sauce for seasoning, and add more salt or pepper if necessary.
- Break the fish into chunks, being careful to feel for any bones and remove any skin, then fold the fish pieces into the sauce. Add the raw prawns and frozen peas to the mixture.
- Place an ovenproof pie dish onto a baking tray (this will catch any of the mix that bubbles over when cooking). Spoon the fish mixture into the bottom of the dish. Sprinkle the parsley and lemon zest over the top.
- Carefully top with the cooled mashed potato. Use a fork to spread the mash over the pie and create a rough texture on top. Dot the pie with the remaining half of the butter and place in the oven for 25–30 minutes, or until golden-brown and bubbling. I also like to add some grated cheese on top.
E.5 Grilling Fish (Note by David Hilton)
If the fish is thin skinned and scale-free I would wipe the skin side dry then brush generously with olive oil before seasoning with lots of salt, pepper and herbs of your choice e.g. oregano. Grill, skin side up under the hottest grill you’ve got till the skin goes crispy and a bit charred. If the fish is then cooked through (which will depend on how thick it is) serve, skin side up, with some salsa verde, pesto or similar plus crushed potatoes etc. If the fish isn’t yet done flip it over and grill the other side till it’s ready then proceed as before.
If the skin is too thick to eat or scaley I would do the same but flesh side up.
E.6 Mediterranean Grilled Red Snapper
2 large whole snapper fish, cleaned and gutted
15 large garlic cloves, pressed with a pinch of salt
2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp black pepper
1 tsp ground sumac
1/2 cup chopped fresh dill
3 bell peppers, different colors, sliced in rounds
1 large tomato, sliced into rounds
1 medium red onion, sliced into rounds
Greek extra virgin olive oil
1 Preheat the oven to 220 degrees C.
2 Pat the snapper fish dry. With a large knife, make two slits on each side of the fish. Fill the slits and coat the gut cavity of each fish with the minced garlic.
3 To make the spice mix, combine the cumin, coriander, salt, pepper and sumac in a small bowl. Use 3/4 of the spice mix to season the snapper on both sides; pat the spices into the fish pushing into the slits you made earlier. Keep the remainder 1/4 of the spice mix aside for now.
4 Stuff each gut cavity with the chopped dill, and as much of the sliced peppers, tomatoes and onions as possible.
5 Place the stuffed fish in a lightly oiled baking sheet. Add the remaining sliced vegetables to form a frame around the fish. Sprinkle the vegetables with a pinch of salt and the remaining 1/4 of the spice mix.
6 Drizzle everything generously with olive oil.
7 Place the baking sheet on the lower rack of your 220 degrees C heated oven. Roast for 25 minutes until the fish flakes. Transfer the fish to a serving platter and squeeze juice of one lemon all over it. Use the slits you made earlier to cut through and portion the fish. Serve it with wedges of the remaining lemon.
8 Enjoy with a rice or potato and salad to choice.
Based on the recipe online at: https://www.themediterraneandish.com/mediterranean-whole-roasted-red-snapper-recipe-with-garlic-and-vegetables/
E.7 Roasted Goraz (Sea Bream OR BRASEN (DK)) and pureed garlic potato with sautéed seasonal local mushrooms.
@Ah, yes! I bought the bream in the local market in Cascais,along with local potatoes I was assured were good for mashing, and some wild mushrooms. I cooked it when Elena Saraceno and nelly Jazra Bandarra cane aboard for dinner on 7 September 2018 , and think it was delicious, as did my guests. I asked the fishmonger to fillet the bream, which she did, and also take the scales off. I fried them in a heavy pan on the gas stove, first liberally dusting with salt and pepper. I had previously boiled the potatoes with whole garlic cloves in water and chicken stock, and then mashed them all together. I mixed milk and yoghurt (should have been cream) and pressed garlic cloves and then added to the potato puree, whisking until fine. This garlic-potato puree I put on the plates, then some flat leaved parsley, then the fish. We drank pure Alvehrino Vino Verde as an accompaniment.
Followed by local Raspberries and Greek Yoghurt for dessert.
Food of the gods and especially godesses!
F. Salads and Vegetarian dishes
F.1 Taboulleh for 6 (Thanks to John and Moros 1 cook book)
The salad (with barley)
150 gms Organic Pearl Barley, boiled for about 40 minutes and drained
600 gms small sweet tomatoes cut into quarters
6 spring onions, trimmed and chopped
4 small bunches of flat-leaved parsley, roughly chopped
2 small bunches of fresh mint, roughly chopped
Mix all the ingredients together after preparation
3 garlic cloves crushed to a paste with salt
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground allspice
3 tblsps fresh lemon juice
4 tblsps Ex V Olive Oil
Sea salt and black pepper
A teaspoon of honey if desired
Mix the spices and garlic together with the lemon juice to disperse flavours, then add the honey and the olive oil and season if needed with salt and pepper. Toss in the salad just before eating.
F1. B Tabbouleh using Bulgar Wheat. (After Moros No 1)
Ingredients for 4
85gm fine bulgar wheat
400gm sweet small tomatoes, cut into pieces
4 spring onions chopped
3 small bunches flat leaved parsley, roughly chopped
1 small bunch of mint, roughly chopped
1 small bunch green coriander, roughly chopped
The dressing is very important
2 garlic cloves
½ teaspoon ground Cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground Allspice
Juice of one lemon (3 tablespoons)
3 tablespoons olive oil
sea salt and black pepper.
Soak the bulgar wheat in cold water for 3 minutes or so and then put in a sieve to drain. Mix all the salad ingredients together. Make the dressing and add just before eating. To make dressing add the spices, garlic and salt to the lemon juice and stir, followed by the olive oil. Check for seasoning.
Barley is good to use in Northern places, Bulgar in the Middle East or Mediterranean.
F.2 Ratatouille Provençal (Ragout) (The one I like) (serves 6-8 or more if accompanied)
(Adapted by John from Joan Weir: From Tapas to Mezze)
2 large aubergines cut into 1 inch cubes, salted washed and dried
6 tblsps Ex V Olive Oil
2 red bell peppers cut into ½ inch strips
1 red chilli pepper, seeded
4 small courgettes (zucchini) trimmed and cut into ¾” slices
2 large yellow onions cut into 8 wedges
8 garlic cloves crushed with sea salt
5/6 tomatoes, skinned and cut into 1 inch cubes
3 tblsps tomato paste
3 bay leaves
4 tblsps chopped flat leaved parsley
¾ tsps. Fresh chopped thyme
2 tblsps red wine vinegar
20 fresh basil leaves cut into thin strips
Large glass of white wine
Glass or two of water as needed
Heat 3 tblsps olive oil in large heave pan. Add the aubergine and brown on all sides (15 mins). Remove with slotted spoon and reserve. Add 1 tblsp olive oil and add the bell peppers, cooking and stirring occasionally until wilted (6/8 mins). Reserve with the aubergine. Add the courgettes and cook until lightly browned (4/5 mins). Reserve with the other veg. Add the remaining 2 tblsps of olive oil with the onions and cook until soft, adding the garlic half way through ( 8/10 mins). Add the tomatoes, paste. Bay leaves, parsley, thyme and pepper, and simmer slowly for 20 mins. Add the reserved veg. to the pan with the wine and vinegar and cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 mins, adding in water as necessary. Place on serving platter and garnish with the strips of basil.
Can be served hot, warm cold, and is very good the day after!
F.3 Potatoes with Grilled Fennel Salad with Fresh Herbs and Parmesan
- 2 fennel bulbs, sliced
- 2 cloves garlic
- olive oil
- fresh herbs like basil, parsley and thyme and some fennel fronds
- lemon juice and zest
- Parmigiano Reggiano shavings
- Waxy potatoes
- If your fennel bulbs have stalks and fronds on them, then trim them off.
- Cut off any hard and inedible outer parts.
- Trim a tiny bit off the bottom, the core helps to keep your slices in tact.
- Holding your fennel bulb upright cut ¼ inch slices vertically from top to bottom.
- Brush each side with olive oil and a sprinkling of salt and pepper.
- Place slices on a medium hot grill turning until you get a nice char on each side and fennel is tender to the touch.
- Whisk together the lemon, olive oil, herbs and zest adding salt and pepper to taste, then drizzle all over.
- Garnish with the shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano.
- Delicious slightly warm or at room temperature.
F.4 Steak, Pesto and Rocket Salad with Parmeggano (Thanks to David Hilton)
1 jar pesto – homemade using home grown basil
Random quantity pine nuts
As much Parmesan as it is possible to ‘shave’ while being thrown from one side of the boat to the other
Large amount of home grown rocket
Spend 15 minutes or so jamming 4 bowls into various corners of the galley in such a way that they will stay put while the boat is rocking wildly from side to side.
Find a plausible excuse to go on deck for a spell to gaze at the horizon in the hope of quelling waves of nausea.
Return to galley and spread generous amount of pesto in the bottom of each bowl while, simultaneously, flash frying steak which you have (at the last minute) remembered to cut into thin strips.
Respond to urgent need to check course by going on deck and gazing at horizon.
Return to galley. Retrieve 2 bowls from cabin sole, scrape up spilt pesto and return it to bowls.
Grab a large handful of rocket and try to ram it into the first bowl which keeps sliding round the galley work-top. Repeat for the the other 3 bowls.
Rescue frying pan from sink where you put it in the vain (and misguided) hope that it’s contents would remain within it. Divide what’s left of the steak between 3 of the 4 bowls then spoon the spilt portion out of the sink into the 4th bowl. Sprinkle pine nuts and Parmesan generously around the whole interior of the boat in the belief that some of it will land in the bowls.
Serve with steamed home-grown potatoes by staggering precariously across cabin in order to hand one bowl at a time up to green- faced crew in cockpit. Watch them pick unenthusiastically at your offering while fighting back nausea.
Wait a while after eating as you may have the chance to enjoy the meal again but this time coming up rather than going down…. (Joke!)
F.5 Cauliflower with Ginger, Garlic and Green Chillies (and if desired Chorizo)
(Normally a vegetarian Indian dish, but adding Chorizo gives it a Hispanic touch!
John likes, and cooks, Madhur Jaffray´s recipe, but while in Cascais with Svalen, he added some chopped local Chorizo after advice from an old Italian friend. I have to say it worked a treat! He also adds small chopped potatoes and fresh coriander sometimes.
3 tablespoons olive oil
¾ teaspoon cumin seeds
¾ teaspoon mustard seeds
4 cloves garlic, peeled and fined chopped with a little salt
2.5 cm of Ginger peeled and chopped
450gm cauliflower florets
1-2 fresh hot green chillies
+half a Chorizo chopped in small pieces (optional for vegetarians)
freshly ground black pepper ¾ teaspoon Garam Masala
¾ teaspoon Chilli powder, or to taste
Put oil in Wok on highish heat. Put in cumin and mustard seeds when hot, and add garlic, ginger, cauliflower, green chillies and (if using) the Chorizo together and stir fry for about 8-10 minutes until the cauliflower turns a bit brown. Now add salt, black pepper, garam masala and chilli powder and give it all a good toss about. Add 4-5 tablespoons cold water andf put the lid on immediately. Cook for a few more minutes and serve immediately
A winner in all forms!
G. Desserts, biscuits, breads, cakes etc
G.1 Simple Bread
1 kg unbleached organic white or mixed brown/white bread flour
2 tsps sea salt
700 ml tepid water
Mix all ingredients together and beat until smooth. Put the mix into two well oiled and floured bread tins. Cover and let rise for as long as needed, usually about 3 hurs. Preheat the oven to 230C (450F), and bake in the middle shelf for 35 minutes. Remove from tin and bake for a further 10-12 minutes, after which time the bottom should sound hollow when tapped. Transfer to a wire rack and cool completely.
G.2 Karen´s Simple (Italian) Rolls (Boller/ Rundstukker)
150 gm durum wheat
500gm wheat flour
½ Litre water
20gm fresh yeast
1 tsp salt
Dissolve salt and yeast in water, add flour. Makes a wet dough- do not try to knead. Let lift overnight. Make shapes with casserole spoon, put them in oven at 220 deg C for about 15 mins. Makes about 20 rolls.
G.3 Flat Bread for 6 (Thanks to John who adapted it from Moros 1 cook book)
600 gms unbleached organic strong bread flour
¾ tsp fine sea salt
yeast (preferably fresh)
255ml tepid water with a little honey dissolved
1.5 tblsp Ex V olive oil
Zatar or Rosemary or Sesame Seeds to garnish
Mix the flour and salt together in a large bowl. Dissolve the yeast in the honey water, and then pour the oil on it. Now sloly mix the water mixture into the flour by hand, kneading for about five minutes and adjusting the amount of flour/water to give a very slighltly tacky but soft elastic and smooth dough. Rest to rise for about 45 minutes on a floured surface and covered by a cloth.
Heat the oven to 230C (450F)
Divide the dough into 6 and roll into balls. Roll out the balls into oval flat breads about 3-5mm thick, and dust with the garnish and a little olive oil before baking on an oiled baking tray for 5 to 10 minutes. Each bread should partly bubble up and colour slightly, but remain rather soft to the touch (ie not crisp).
G.4 Simple Ginger biscuits (John, based on Anne Carr’s recipe)
250gms butter melted
250 gms castor sugar
2 tsps ground ginger
chopped stem ginger if available
440 gms self-raising flour (or normal flour with 2 tsps baking powder mixed in it)
Melt the butter and sugar together gently, then remove from hear and slowly mix in the flour and ginger (including the stem ginger). Press into a 30x20cm baking tray. Bake in a moderate oven, 190C for 15-20 mins until lightly browned. Cut into squares and transfer to a wire rack to cool before storing in an airtight tin.
G.5 Linda’s Incredible Fruit Cake (sufficient for 3 standard loaf tins)
(With many thanks to Rona Gundry for this delicious sailors cake – who would be without it with a nice mug of good tea! I took three of them with me to Russia on Aldarion!)
560g S-R flour
112g ground almonds
450g demerara sugar
900g sultanas or other dried fruit chopped.
Melt butter with sugar in saucepan then remove from heat.
Add fruit, eggs, ground almonds and flour.
Divide into lined loaf tins.
Cook in slowish oven ‘until done’.
G.6 Cheese Straws
- 56g of Plain Flour
- A pinch of Salt
- A pinch of Cayenne Pepper OR Ground Paprika
- 70g of Grated Cheddar Cheese
- 14g of Grated Parmesan Cheese
- 56g of Butter
- 1 egg yolk
- Only if needed: 1 tbs of milk
- Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan.
- Sieve the flour, salt and pepper/paprika into a bowl. Add the butter and rub well. Once rubbed well ad the grated cheese and briefly stir.
- Moisten with egg yolk. Knead into a ball. If the mixture is still oo crumbly add the milk to it and then knead into a ball. Sprinkle some flour on a work surface. Roll the mixture out into a square and cut into thin strips (1cm).
- Place on a lined baking tray and brush with any remaining egg yolk if you would like. Bake them for 12 – 15 mins or until golden. Cool them on a wire rack.
- Eat and enjoy!
G.7 Lebanese Apricot and Chocolate Tart (Amazing!)
150g plain flour
Pinch of salt
25g ground rice (rice flour)
50g castor (fine white) sugar
100g butter, chilled
Caster sugar for dredging when ready
Seive the flour, salt and ground rice into a mixing bowl and stir in the sugar. Add the chilled butter in one piece and gradually rub in to the dry ingredients. Knead by hand until well mixed, but do not allow the dough to become sticky. Wrap in foil or polythene and chill in the fridge for 30 minutes approx.
Preheat the oven to 160◦C.
Press the chilled dough firmly into a 17.5cm round tin, or if available a fluted edge flan ring on a greased baking sheet. Prick all over the dough with a fork and mark into triangular portions with a knife. Chill in the fridge for a further 15 minutes.
Bake in the centre of the warmed oven for 40-45 minutes or until pale golden in colour. If it becomes too brown during cooking, cover with foil.
Remove from oven and allow to cool slightly, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Dredge with sugar and break or cut into slices for serving.
G.9 Rona’s nutty biscuits (Rona is it too much to ask??? We all love them!!)
H. Jams, Marmalades, Preserves
H.1 Strong Marmalade (John’s recipe based on the New Times Cookbook)
(Not to be made on the boat, it uses too much gas!)
900 gms oranges, preferably Seville
2.25 litres water
900 gms granulated or preserving white sugar
900 gms demarara sugar
2 large tblsps dark treacle preferably molasses
Cut the peel off the oranges and lemons and insert into juicer to remove juice and separate the pith and seeds. Then cut the peel into short thick strips.
Tie the pith and pips into a muslin bag and hang into the large pan. Add the water and peel to the pan and boil gently until the peel is very tender and the liquid well reduced (about 2 hours). Lift the muslin bag out of the pan and squeeze as much of the thick pectin mixture into the pan. Add all the sugars and treacle into the pan and return all to the boil rapidly. Test for setting, and when it sets, remove from heat and take off the skimmings. Stir rapidly with a glass of whisky. Cool a little and put into the sterilised jam pots. Leave to cool and cover.
H.2 Preserved Lemons (these keep well in a large kilner jar on the boat and can be used for several great recipes such as Gill´s Tagine).
10 unwaxed organic lemons washed and dried
1 kg coarse sea salt
3 roughly broken up cinnamon sticks
1 tblsp coriander seeds
1 tblsp whole cumin seed
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp cloves
5 small dried red chillies
5 bay leaves
juice of 8 extra lemons
Make a cross on the top of each lemon and continue to cut 2/3 of the way down. Open out slightly, pushing some salt inside each one, and press together again. In a large steralised preserving jar of about 1.5L, alternate the salt with the spices and lemons so that everything is more or less evenly packed into the jar. Press down on the lemons to help extrude some of the juice. Pour on extra lemon juice to cover completely. Close the jar and leave at room temperature for about 2 months, or until the skins are soft all the way through. When ready to use a lemon, remove from the jar, rinse under cold water to remove excess salt, pull out and discard the pulp, then chop the skin as desired. Will keep in the fridge for up to a year, or in the sole of the boat.
Another quicker method is to boil the lemons whole with lots of salt and the same spices above until the skin is soft. Place in a jar with the cooking liquid and spices and leave to cure for 5 days. Cover with olive oil and keep in fridge or in skin of ship.
I. Drinks for hot evenings.
I.1 Long cool port concoction (thanks to @Thomas Kringlebotn Thiis)
Fill tall glass with ice, and add some white Port. Then an equal amount of tonic. Finish with a slice of lime or lemon. This is not strong, and can be enjoyed in quantity!
I.2 Gin and French. (Thanks to @Peter Baumann)
Fill a small glass with crushed ice. Almost fill with gin. Add a splash of dry French Vermouth (Noilly Prat), and a slice of lemon. Stirred not shaken! Don’t take too many!
I.3 Mohito. (Thanks to @Amina Memon)
Put 10 fresh mint leaves in a tall glass with crushed ice and a wedge of lime. Stir around to release flavours and crush the mint a bit. Add a tablespoon of cane sugar (more, or less, to taste) and tso more lime wedges. Fill glass to top with ice and stir again. Pout in a ´tot´ of rum and fill the glass with fizzy water. Granish with lime wedge and a few more mint leaves. One again, cå canny!