Today, 1st of July, is our last day in Shetland. We are currently in Grut Ness, Sumburgh. Yesterday we went to Jarlshof where you can see remains of settlements from 2500 BC up to the 17th century AD. It was very interesting to see that this place, so isolated and exposed had been chosen as a home for over 4000 years. We learnt that they all chose this exact spot because of the long beach and good fishing. So far we have seen many animals such as, whales, seals, rabbits, Shetland ponies and lots of birds, but today was the first time we saw puffins up close. We walked from the pier to the lighthouse called Sumburgh head, where there was a museum. The lighthouse is on top of a massive cliff filled with many different kinds of birds, although the puffins were the most exciting ones. After we had been to the museum we had scones and coffee. Thea Kari twisted her ankle on the way back and got a ride from some kind locals. Right now the pans are sizzling and the smell of lamb chops fills the boat, it’s dinner time.      Sigrid (Svalen crew).

The broch on Mousa island, St Ninian’s Island and beach, Boats from Norway in the Bergen Shetland race at Lerwick, Scalloway Museum, the crew with St Patrick’s castle behind, Karen and Hege sunbathing, the Light at Kirkabister Ness, South end of Bressay,  and Karen swimming at St Ninian’s beach.

Apart from moving the boat around between Albert dock and Victoria Pier in order to make room for the soon-to-arrive 36 boats arriving from Bergen in the Bergen-Shetland-Bergen race, we have been enjoying Lerwick, company of friends, and even going further afield today.

First stop on Wednesday morning was the wonderful museum in Hays Wharf, completed about 20 years ago, and opened by Queen Sonja of Norway. Queen Sonja has also privately visited Scalloway Museum, where memorabilia, artefacts and stories from the Shetland Bus exploits are kept. We spent a few hours there, and all enjoyed it, considering that it had something of interest for all ages, and many things of particular interest con kerning the Nordic connection.

Thomas, Hege and the girls then went for a late lunch of fish and chips, while Skip went shopping for dinner, visiting Jamiesons the butcher and the Coop. A special effort was needed because Karen was supposed to join us from Bergen, and Claire White of ´Blythe Lassies´and her husband Michael were joining us all for a meal and conversation. Claire visited us in Norway with the team from BBC Scotland a few years ago to interview me on land reform in Norway and Scotland and related matters. The team came to have a meal with us and guests in Kilehagen, after which we had a great session, with Swedish and Norwegian fiddlers, friends of Karen´s, and Claire, who also brought her fiddle. The team recorded it, and part was used as background music in the programme. Claire was also a student of mine briefly at Aberdeen.

Michael is one of the band of true Shetlanders who build the viking ships, helmets, and weaponry for the annual Up-Hella-Å fire festival, commemorating Shetland´s Viking connection. Harald I, also know as Harald Fairhair, or Finehair, died about 940, and was the first king to claim sovereignty over all Norway. He was one of the greatest of the 9th-century Scandinavian warrior chiefs, even if his control was patchy. Lerwick even has a King Harald Street to commemorate his involvement in settling conflict between Viking pirates on the Shetland Islands, and ensuring that the islands were part of Norway.

Alas, Karen´s Loganair flight from Bergen to Shetland was cancelled due to fog at Sumburgh airport, but Claire and Michael came along and we all got a great deal of information, as well as good conversation. After the meal Claire interviewed Selma and Skip for Shetland radio. Michael´s mother is also a well-known Scalloway knitter, among many other things (such as Michaels favourite bonnet) knitting the ´Betty Mouat´sweater for the video to accompany Claire´s forthcoming CD of songs about notable Shetland women.

Photo of Skipper with Michael and Claire. Yes, that IS water in their glasses!

On Thursday morning Thomas and I got up early to move the boat into the berth along the Albert pier wall soon to be vacated by the sailing boat Swan, but at Hays Yard in 1900. Swan is off to the wooden boat festival at Portsoy in NE Scotland this weekend. It was a beautiful bright, warm and sunny morning. No sign of mist at all! After hanging about a bit with a coffee, we managed to get to the spot and settle in for some breakfast. The crew hired a car for two days and headed off to explore Shetland, while Skip went to the fishmonger to get fish for dinner, and other bits and pieces from Tesco, on the way back from the Fishmonger (by bike). Tescos is close to the Broch at Clickimin Loch.  Karen´s flight from Bergen duly arrived around 3pm, and she found her way to the boat. She and Hege  are off this weaving to a knitting Session at Scalloway museum, where they will also meet Michael´s mother and father (who was one of those who started the Museum). so it will be a late fish dinner!

Signing off for now to start cooking!

The beginning of Sigrid, Thea Kari, Hege and Selma´s time on Svalen

Sigrid, Thea Kari, Hege and Selma joined the crew at Svalen in Bergen Saturday 23^rdof June to an already fully packed boat. After struggling to get all the new “supplies” (really a whole lot of personal things) stowed into the many small cabinets, we started moving towards Hummelsund just north of Marstein Fyr, a place where ship pilots come and go. We had some trouble settling into the sailboat-life as it had been some time since our last time at sea, so nausea wasn’t uncommon. Anyhow we had a very nice first sail with many things to see. For instance, the 23^rdof June is the date of St. Hans celebrations in Norway, meaning people gather on beaches and along the coast lines and burn large bonfires together to celebrate the longest day of the year. The coastline was scattered with such bonfires and people standing out in the rain watching them, making our sail colorful and much more interesting.

Our first sail ended with a nice salmon dinner that Sigrid and Thea Kari cooked on command, and a short walk in small Hummelsund. We all prepared ourselves for the long sail across the North Sea the next morning, with mixed feelings about how it was going to be.

Whales in the North Sea

During our much longer sail than expected, due to constant headwind, there hadn’t been much to see except a few Fulmars following us along the way. However, early the last morning of the Bergen-Shetland stretch something large and black emerged from the water on our port side. After some discussion Sigrid and John, who were on watch, concluded it must be a killer whale and immediately woke the rest of the crew to finally witness some wildlife. The whale kept emerging and descending into the water, blowing air and showing off its tale. We understood there must be more than one and we were fascinated. The whales weren’t with us for long, but we managed to take some pictures of their very dark backs, as they were moving up and down in the early morning.

It was spectacular seeing such huge creatures all alone out at sea, and it got us thinking about all the life going on underneath the surface of the sea we were sailing. Later on we even spotted several seals and could appreciate the wildlife even more! We are now looking forward to seeing more animals along our way down the Scottish coast.

Thea Kari´s fishing luck

Thea Kari has always been keen on fishing whenever we are out at sea, so naturally she was excited to fish in the North Sea! John had provided a fishing line and a hook for her and she got to it. However, after fishing and fishing, and fishing, for anything that would bite, she lost some of her drive. There simply seemed to be no fish in the sea, what so ever. Anyhow, she was persistent to keep on going as seen in the picture below.

In the end Thea Kari ended up catching one small mackerel that unfortunately let go off the hook just before she managed to pull it on board. Hence, the happiness! was short lived. The conclusion of the long lasting fishing-attempt was therefore that Thea Kari still has some fishing luck, but that the very limited catch this time was due to factors outside of her control. Thea Kari is now hoping for better luck next time, and better conditions of course!

Currently crossing the Norwegian Sea,  tacking across to Shetland, ETA  Tuesday!

Selma Toft at the wheel

The crew for Shetland in Bergen – The Hege Toft family and Skipper John Bryden

Skipper working on the blog

While in Bergen we were moored at Shetland Larssen´s pier. There is a plaque in his memory, and a statue of him at the end of the pier. Both are photographed below.

Who was Shetlands Larssen? He was one of the big heroes of the so-called Shetland Bus during World War II, sailing his boat between Shetland and Norway with supplies for the resistance, escapees, etc etc. His real name was Leif Andreas Larsen DSO, DSC, CGM, DSM and Bar (B. 9 January 1906; D. 12 October 1990). He was a Norwegian sailor and the most highly decorated allied naval officer of World War II. Arguably the most famous of the men who operated the Shetland bus escape route during the war. He also skippered the fishing boat that attempted to sink the Battleship Tirpitz when it was based in Norway.

Behind the statue is the Rosenkrantz tower, a stone building standing since the 12th Century, and at one time the residence of King Magnusson, who died in 1299, The work on the building was completed by Scottish masons and stonecutters in the 1560s, and the finished building has similarities with Scottish fortified towers from the same period. It is currently covered for some external repairs.

One of Norway´s pretty Lighthouses, this one on approach to Bergen

One of many Fish Farms in Lageuna

Sailing north in Langeuan (“long pull”) north of Leirvik in Hordaland

Timber ship in Langeuan

Second Leg, From Lista to Bergen, our jumping off point for the Shetland Isles.

Monday 18^thto Wednesday 20th June

The little harbor at Lista for fishing boats turned out to be a friendly place, and two people came to chat wit us on the pier during the evening. Th first guy had been watching three football matches during the day and wanted to escape from that for a while. The second had a white poodle and he had been with the school ship, and was waiting to go to Bergen on Wednesday to join the ship, which was leaving for Capo Verde, Brazil and South Africa. So perhaps we will meet them later! He really liked our boat.

From Lista we had a long rather uneventful sail north to Skudneshavn, right at the southernmost tip of Karmoy Island.  Not much wind until later in the day,  so too much use of the motor.

Karmoy is the long island off Haugesund, and the sound between, Karmsund,  between is a safe and deep passage for large and small ships heading up or down the Norwegian coast.  There is a high bridge at the north end for traffic between. Skudneshamn was a fishing harbor, but is now heavily engaged in oil servicing and ship repairs.  It was a very white little fishing village with a shipyard, and many houses along the canal, like a small northern Venice, in converted warehouses, and with their own place for mooring boats. The small guest harbor had noi space left for us, so we tied up on the cabal behind the shipyard. Later Thomas discovered that he could not leave this area to take a alk (well, if he did, he could not get back in again) because it was designated as the international harbor! Not a great deal to see there! However, we had safe shelter fom the rising ind and sea, a great meal of fish chowder with a nice white wine, and a good sleep!

On Tuesday, we took the morning off while waiting for the nights storm to die down, eventually casting off  at 2.15pm , and exiting the harbor in moderate seas from the south, and a strong enough wind to propel us along at a brisk 7-8 knots.. We decided to sail as long as we could, because the boat was behaving perfectly and we were getting towards our destination with the best sailing so far!

Reaching Haugesund at 1645, we passed straight out into the area of rough seas between Haugesund and Bømlafjorden. Bokenafjorden is in between the two, and here we had strong gusts and fantastic waves up to about 3m, rolling in from the West.  We tied up in sheltered Leirvik guestharbour at 2145, and had pasta with a sauce of tomatoes, onion and chorizo sausages. Turned in about 0100 on Wednesday after chatting.

How cold it is here after our summer sailing to Denmark, and hot days there preparing the boat. Alas, our boat heaters are still not working, so it gets rather cold, especially at night.

Wednesday was a lazy start, around 9am, with cold rain.Thomas went off to look for a bakery he remembered and get fresh bread. Alas the bakery, and many of the other small shops he remembered, had closed…., as in so many other places. However he eventually found bread, and we had a good breakfast together.

After sending some files off to Karen, ands writing some of the blog, we set off for Bergen in full rain gear. Hoping to catch a meaningful south wind that had been forecast, we were disappointed. All day the wind remained light and variable, and the sails came up and down several times. It also rained a lot,so everything got wet, although mostly dried again later.

Norway is a very beautiful country to sail in, especially the West, and we are both happy to be back again. When we reached Bergen around 2100, we had to move the boat several times because the tall ships were arriving today and tomorrow for some event, and all the quays are reserved. Now we have a space in the noisy spot at the eastern end of the harbor. Here we will stay until Hege and the girls arrive on Saturday, or until we get a good weather forecast to sail to the Shetland Islands, which will take up to 40 hours, depending on wind speed and direction, and sea state.  Now we are trying to catch up with other things, do small repairs, trying to get the heating going (it is now 10 degrees C here!), do the laundry etc etc. Indeed, Thomas is now on a Skype call for work!

We are just about at mid summers day, so we should have no real darkness when crossing to Shetland at this latitude.

Remember, you can track us through the regular satellite uplinks of our position at https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/SYSvalen

Skipper

Haugesund to Leirvik today – Thomas happy in good 10m:s winds and 2-3m waves today! We were mostly sailing at 7-8kts. Super sailing! Lovely motion with Svalen, like dancing tango through the seas! Skipper.

(1) Martin and Karina´s farewell card!

(2) Poula´s roses, which survived some pretty rough seas on the Norway crossing, and never fell or spilt!

Skippers Blog, Svalen. 15th to 17th June. Off We Go Again!

Second Leg, Skive in Jutland Denmark to Norway and Scotland, including the Shetland Isles, Fair Isle, Orkney Islands and Inverness.

As always, the end in Skive was somewhat hectic, but Lars and Helle Klok got the wonderful team organized, Lasse and Ole came back on Friday evening to fit a NMEA connector and wire up the Solar Panela, and nearly everything was completed by the time we left just after 9am on Saturday 16^thJune. Søren was first to arrive on Friday and he went up the mast to check the rigging, cross-trees, and topmast connectors and wiring. Later he went to get – and then fit – a new halyard for the Genoa, the old one being too worn to take on a transatlantic sail.  Nils came at the same time to help get Søren up the mast, and brought the NMEA convertor, finally arrived from the Raymarine agents. Martin and Karina came soon after bearing the parts they had built with Lars for the two 80w solar panels, and they got that fitted and later, with Lasse´s help, all wired up and connected. Lisbeth and I cleaned the summer house and for 6 tubs of local honey from Preben in Lem. We also did some lst minute shopping and took last minute laundry to Poula for washing.  Lisbeth went to collect Thomas at Aalborg airport, and that all worked. The three of us slept aboard. I cooked for Lasse, Ole, Birthe and Jette who came the farthest (from Aalborg and Nibe). Birthe brought 10 nice old oil drums that she had cleaned up for us to carry spare diesel to cross the Doldrums with if we need it. We had a small farewell party.

On Saturday we work early, and Lars soon arrived bearing rundstukker (rolls) and chocolate pastries, cheese, etc for farewell breakfast. His son-in-law Martin came to finish the woodwork repair by sanding it, and taking off the spare glue, etc. I made a big pot of coffee.. Helle, Marin & Karine, Nils ans Gunnar& Poula all came to say farewell. Martine and Karina brought a funny but appropriate card, wine and chocolates. Poula brought roses from the garden. Finally we cast off around 9am, while Martin got his Drone in the air to take videos from above. There was absolutely NO wind at all, so we were obliged to set off under engine. We continued thus to the bridge at Glyngore, when wind arrived and we put on sail. We put the engine of and had a great sail to Thyboron, passing swiftly under the bridge at Orrasund, which opened as we approached at 1615 hours.

We continued into the North Sea, exiting the Limfjord at 1900 hours, and then sailed overnight to Norway, with little enough wind, but confused seas.  We took it in turn to sleep, but one person at the helm and lookout, the other in the cockpit sleeping but available if needed, and one down below trying to sleep!

We arrived at Mandal in S Norway on Sundy 17^that 1215, and, as had been previously agreed, Lisbeth disembarked to catch a bus to Oslo, from where she was heading for a funeral of a del young Chilean friend, who died in difficult circumstances in Germany. It was all very sad for her, and also for us.

Having made sure Lisbeth got the bus, Thomas and I continued to sail west around Lindesness point to Lista on the south western end of Norway, where we finally moored in the smll fishing harbor at around 8pm, and had a nice meal of lamb cubes (another story!, they were intended to be balls) cooked by Thomas, with some good wine to relax with, before turning in for a solid but short nights sleep.

So we are on our way, and you can track us through the regular satellite uplinks of our position at https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/SYSvalen

https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/SYSvalen